LOCO HOMBRE

413 W. Coldspring Lane
Phone: 410-889-2233
Hours: 11:00am - 10:00pm (Mon - Sat); 11:00am - 9:00pm (Sun)

Personal Review 26-October-2004:
Well, Loco Hombre is NOT your typical, fun, local Mexican-style restaurant anymore. Gone are the Mexican murals and Charro hats on the walls. Gone are the cacti and tables. Gone are the chili posters in the bathrooms. Gone is the Mexican food! What? Read on. The atmosphere is now decidedly 'upscale' compared to before. Upholstered booths, accent lighting, new artwork on the walls...not the typical Mexican-style and a change of music (some light Mexican style, but only a bit). The biggest change is in the menu. If you want chips and salsa, be prepared to fork over $4. They now provide 3 small dishes of salsa to go with their multicolored chips. The sweet green salsa as before, a bland red salsa (not like the old smokey flavored picante salsa) and a new queso style salsa that has some zip, but is still a bit mild. The menu (for lunch) has little resemblance to the Mexican-style fare of old. Indeed, the only typical dishes found were a couple Quesadillas. Only on the dinner menu will you find anything like enchiladas, fajitas and burritos. Most of the items one finds now include such dishes as baby-back ribs, pulled chicken wrap, grilled shrimp salad, house-smoked prok cubano sandwich and a number of other noticeably non-Mexican-style entrees (though apparently one can get typical Mexican-style dishes to go). Prices have increased as well. Lunch items will now run you $8 to $18. You won't find the old $5 lunch specials here anymore.

The dinner menu suggested these people are experiencing dilusions of grandeur. With prices ranging from $10 to $26, you'll find items like cornmeal-fried trout, grilled salmon with cuban-style black bean mash, sweet walnut-encrusted chilean sea bass, grilled duck breast, grilled pork chop with achiote-red pepper sauce, grilled beef tenderloin...need I go on? Other than including some spices and chili-sauces, what has most of this to do with the old namesake of Loco Hombre? I have no doubt the prices are in line with the fare offered, but given the location and the decor and the assumption that this is/was a Mexican-style establishment, we clearly felt like we were in the wrong place. I'm not sure what possessed the Loco Hombre people to make such drastic changes, but I suspect that it will be a decision that will come back to haunt them. When we were there, lunchtime on a recent Saturday, the place was practically empty...no more than 3 booths occupied at any given time (even less people in the companion restuarant Alonso's). What we had was ok, filling, but not what it used to be. The Spicy Black Bean soup was no longer spicey...bland. The sweet tamale was ok, mostly masa. The Quesadilla was ok but lacking much inside. Loco Hombre definitely has dilusions of grandeur. At these prices and the new menu, I seriously doubt they will bring back the old crowds (and it was always crowded here before). We certainly are not likely to go back. If we want Mexican, we'll definitely go elsewhere. If we want more in line with the haute cuisine they are now offering, we'll go elsewhere (where there is more appropriate atmosphere for the fare...and prices).

It was, to say the least, a bit of a let down to see the new direction of Loco Hombre. It used to be a fun, friendly, crowded restaurant with very good Mexican-style food. Alas, no more.

Personal Review 10-October-2003:
Although it has been awhile since our last visit to Loco Hombre, the quality of the fare has not changed much, still very good. I had forgotten, however, they no longer provide free chips and salsa upon being seated. If you want these, you must order them. Surprisingly, we were brought no salsa for our entrees, one of which was a Taco Salad which needed some. When asked, the waiter did bring out a small container. The salsa was quite zippy and not bland like so many places locally.

Loco Hombre is undergoing a bit of a change. The old wall murals with scenes of burros, catci and Mexicans in sombreros in the desert have been painted over with a reddish color paint. New lighting has been installed to aim down at the tables and directional lighting for new pictures to be hung on the walls. I'm not sure what the final outcome will be. The murals were sort of characteristic of Mexican style restaurants. We'll have to go back in a few weeks to see what transpires.

We were also informed that the menu is going to be changed. Now, my first impression is, why mess with a good menu? Only time will tell. So, stay tuned.

Personal Review :
For my taste, Loco Hombre is one of the best Mexican Restaurants in the area , and I grew up on some of the best having lived most of my life in Southern California only 50 miles from the border. As the Baltimore Magazine review below indicates, the dishes are basically "nuevo Texy- Mexy dishes". They're not quite the traditional fare a Southwest native might expect, but very good nonetheless. Loco Hombre doesn't have the typical (and perhaps traditional) combination plate available in many Mexican restaurants which might include a taco, enchilada, and chili relleno or burrito, for example. So for the uninitiated who are looking for a variety of items in a single dish, they may be disappointed. Also missing are a la carte listings allowing one to select their own variety of items. And the restaurant is rather insistant upon no substitutions. Eventually, the overall menu becomes same-o, same-o for frequent visitors. Perhaps the restaurant should consider updating the menu with the opportunity for more variety or particular tastes.

The salsas provided are, for me, a bit weak; not as wimpy as other restaurants in the area, but not a lot of zip. Occasionally, however, if you ask the server, you'll find the cook has prepared a much hotter habanero salsa kept in the back--definitely a step in the right direction, but not for the timid. One thing I do like about this restaurant, is that they also provide bottles of Cholula and the new Tabasco Jalapeño salsa on the table. Dumping a bit of either in the house salsas helps improves the zip enough to be tolerable, but not perfect. Although I seldom have enough room left for deserts, the restaurant does have an interesting selection of Flan, Sopapillas, etc. The Sopapillas are a favorite of mine but very difficult to find in this area. Loco Hombre's sopapillas are good, but not the typical puffed, light delights one experiences out west. Prices are reasonable, but I noted recently that the same menu is used for both lunch and dinner items. A small card listing the daily lunch special is the only break you'll get if you're expecting a cheaper selection for lunch. A different menu is now available for the Saturday and Sunday Brunch (11-3). Might be worth checking out.

Update - 29 June 1999: A recent visit met with some interesting changes. Loco Hombre has merged with Alonso's next door and BOTH are now NON-SMOKING! A very good move. The only drawback is that one must now enter Loco Hombre through Alonso's, walk past the bar and package sales, and find the door through to Loco Hombre. Not the most inviting entrance. The good part is there is a ramp into Loco Hombre for Handicapped access and there are more tables available now with the remodeled restaurant.

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Baltimore Magazine, February 2001 -- "Our Seventy Favorite Restaurants", edited by Cynthia Glover; written by Dave Butcher, Linda DeLibero, and Cynthia Glover
{Reprinted with permission of Baltimore Magazine}

A deliciously creamy Caesar salad with marinated shrimp brims over the edges of its large ceramic bowl. It's a light meal in itself. Tuna in chipotle sauce brings the enticing smokiness of that pepper without the burn. The salmon in the pescado caliente is succulent and delicious. And everyone seems to be in a good mood, no matter how loud it gets. Going Southwestern at Loco Hombre is great for family dining. You can sip on a margarita while the kids scarf down the four-color tortillas and salsa. They can order the usual burritos, fajitas, and enchiladas, but there are also more interesting choices for you. Portions are generous and prices are reasonable.

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Baltimore Magazine, February 1999 -- "75 Best Restaurants" -- edited by Cynthia Glover and David Dudley
{Reprinted with permission of Baltimore Magazine}

Not everyone is charmed by the gleeful grubbiness of certain Tex-Mex joints. For those who prefer a decidedly upscale taco, try Loco Hombre. Thats flavor as in attitude, waiters who introduce themselves by name, sombrero-free walls. And flavor as in flavor, black bean soup with cilantro, blackened achiote shrimp, grilled salmon with banana salsa. No, don't expect the freebies (you have to fork over $1.50 for the tri-color chips and salsa), and don't expect plate-dwarfing enchiladas drowning in Monterey Jack. Do expect good service, careful preparations, and South-of-the-Border fare designed to appeal to North-of-Hampden appetites.

Why go: Uptown Tex-Mex and an upscale crowd.
While youre there: Try the yummy sweet potato fries (but expect to share them with jealous tablemates).

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Baltimore Magazine, January 1998 -- "The 75 Best Restaurants", edited by Cynthia Glover and David Dudley
{Reprinted with permission of Baltimore Magazine}

Tex-Mex with track lighting, Loco Hombre goes South of the Border via Roland Park. This isn't the usual smoky cantina bursting with cerveza-swilling rowdies and gooey cheese-topped burritos. The dining room is bright and open, the crowds are prosperous and kid-toting, and the eats are fresh, mild Southwestern revisionist, with pretty plates painted with fancy squiggles of salsa and nary a pickled jalapeño in sight. Try a soft taco rolled around tender achiote-tinged shrimp, or go further upscale with a serrano-chile-crusted salmon with red banana salsa and crème fraîche.

Do: Hit the hot sauce if you crave the burn; Loco Hombre is on the mild side.
Don't: Balk at the $1.50 for the non-complimentary tortilla chips and smoky-sweet chipotle salsa. It's worth it.

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Baltimore Magazine, July 1997 -- "Best of Baltimore, 1997"
{Reprinted with permission of Baltimore Magazine}

People's Choice: Best Mexican

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Baltimore Magazine, February 1997 -- "75 Best Restaurants"
{Reprinted with permission of Baltimore Magazine}

Loco Hombre knows its chili peppers and its crowd. It understands just when to soothe us with the sweet, smoky flavor of a chipotle pepper--in its salsa rioja, for example. Or to pique our interest with an earthy New Mexican, as at brunch in the sassiest poached-egg plate you're likely to find. And it knows when to go for the one-two punch of a searing serrano, as in chili-crusted salmon with red banana salsa and a cooling ancho chili crème fraîche on the side. Its fresh interpretations of Tex-Mex standards like enchiladas, burritos, and fajitas make for lines of eager diners snaking out the door on weekend nights. Loco Hombre can tickle your palate with its hot pepper firepower and tickle your eye with its vibrant, colorful plates, and that's what makes it a perennial best.

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Baltimore Magazine, July 1995 -- "The Best Ethnic Restaurants"
[from the "Best of Baltimore issue"]
{Reprinted with permission of Baltimore Magazine}

And what man (woman or child for that matter) wouldn't be loco for this playful restaurant's light, bright take on our favorite southwestern dishes?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Baltimore Magazine, February 1995 -- "75 Restaurants We Love"
{Reprinted with permission of Baltimore Magazine}

Inexpensive. A red-napkin-lined basket of rainbow-colored corn chips with red and green salsas sets the tone: There are zingy flavors and silly fun to be had at this Tex-Mex emporium. Fresh takes on standards like enchiladas and quesadillas and a few colorful creations all its own--like a salmon disk that resembles a volcano erupting in a flow of red banana salsa--keeps Loco Hombre humming with the good vibes of people burittoing.

SIGNATURE DISHES: chili rellenos stuffed with corn, chicken, jack and cheddar; pescado caliente.
MOST POPULAR: enchiladas, fajitas.
WHO GOES THERE: all of Roland Park and most of the rest of us.
WHY GO THERE: a touch of whimsy and a touch of class.

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